RC51 SP2 correct diagram for forks?

So I think I am on track and everything is going well (except I am waiting on a damper holder tool). However the manual is just flat wrong. Well I did some searching, OK a LOT of searching and I am not crazy. Seems the manual only shows an SP1 and the SP2 cap is different. OK now I got that but I went and searched the fiche and guess what THEY are all wrong also. Still not a problem as I know how to get things back together but what happens if you need parts Any ideas or suggestions on finding a correct diagram?

Send them to someone with the tools and knowledge to do them right?

I know that is against your gaining experience focus but those are something I'd want done right and they are complex. I'll check my manual but it is likely to be like yours.

I got it figured out now. The caps are different in the SP2 and actually a comment I found is to do the cap like an 04 RR then follow the RC manual from there (which is correct) The thing is if I wanted a new part in the cap what is the number I checked the fiche on Ron Ayers through '06 and they are all incorrect. So it would be nice to have access to a proper diagram.

On a side note I don't think they will leak when I get stuff back together. They had a TON of trash in the oil. That was after one race and Grattan where I did not put in many fast laps because I was recovering from a respratory infection so breathing was an issue Because of that while I am not there yet I expect to see trashed bushings (I have both ready to go in). The tubes actually look very clean but under full compression I think there was some wobble due to worn out bushing that made them leak, time will tell.

Good luck with it, and I assume you would order the RR caps if needed. Good to know up front before you had to keep swapping parts.

I helped a friend do his KTM USD forks once, and then decided I would send mine out.

Interesting. So far other than the cap info being wrong I have not found it hard. Of course if I had to revalve it is WAY beyond me. But for a disassemble and clean, then drop in new seals, bushings and oil it is not a terrible job. I hope to post a better discussion if time allows (I need to get it back together for the track)

It has been a while, but it seemed to take at least 3 hands to get the KTM (or was it the Suzi?) fork back together. Maybe it was out ignorance at the time.

Good luck.

I splurged on tools as I plan on inspecting and changing oil a minimum of once a year as I should and also doing the RR next. At 300 a wack it will be a nice payback. Part of the writeup will also be what tools in the base kit I did not need. I have two spring compressors but the good one should make it easy. The good part is with seals, bushings, oil (extra) and tools I should have less money out for two bikes plus a couple of oil changes than I would for one. Plus I have the tools so future cost go lower yet. Who knows I practice on my RR and Seamus might want his done if he moves back this way

yeah but what about doing the rear shock? you gotta send that somewhere to get done cause its not really a do it yourself job. I'll take my stuff to PK (GMD) this winter for a refresh cause I don't know when it was last done and its been over a year since I bought it.

The shock is arguably simpler but requires more special tools.

True for now. I am waiting to see where TMan lands. It was done fairly recently as was the front. The front was leaking though. As I stated I am fairly sure the front bushings are shot. According to UPS the tool will be here Friday

unless he has a gas charged shock such as an ohlins then it gets pretty hard to get the nitrogen and recharge it.

Nitrogen is easy to get and some shocks have a self closing needle valve port made to refill with. Not sure that is the Ohlins nor am I that ambitious yet

Doing the front should be pretty easy (unless something comes back on me that I am not seeing) and save a ton of $$$ So the tools will be paid for after the RC is done, the RR is free as will be the refresh on oil next summer for the RC. You should refresh them at least once a year according to folks smarter than me

I wasn't thinking actually getting it to be that hard, just getting it in there in the correct amount. but I've never even looked for how it goes in.

Most that I've seen have a "valve stem" appearing device. You just hook up a gauge in line with whatever you are using to charge with to get your correct pressure.

Yep same with the valve. Just set the pressure. I think if I was going to get into rear shocks I would want a practice run though. Maybe down the road I will put an Ohlins on the RR and user the stocker for practice (I am sure it is shagged at 40K miles)

Not something that I'm planning to do anytime soon but I also wouldn't be afraid to try if I could afford the necessary tools.