RC51 SP2 Fork Rebuild (NOT valving)

I will try to post a nice sequential one for fork 2 but I now have the fork apart and ready to go back. This does not cover revalving pay an expert and be happier.

Some thoughts:
Bench before:

SP1 and SP2 ARE different. The manual and fiches show the same but the top cap on the SP2 is different, if that spooks you stop before you start. A picture of the guts:


Tools beyond hand tools that I needed:
10mm hex extension (not absolute but you want something)

Damper Rod holder don't begin without it.

Oil level tool (could be done without but get one)
Compressor (could be done without but not by one person and HIGHLY recommend you buy one or don't do the job)
(There is also a nicer one in the bench picture)
Tools I didn't use:
Bleeder (might be nice but there is no way to use it on the RC


Not sure on the bushing but I have new ones so they are going in. It seems like the wear is on the opposite side that I would expect I would expect it to be on the outside of the inner and inside of the outer but it appears to be the opposite. Maybe that means they are fine but I have them so in they go.


There was a lot of crud in the oil I thought. I had seals put in at Barber in May then raced. Then I rode Grattan so not a ton of time for the debris I thought.

that copper showing through on the bushings means they are due for replacement. so its good that you are doing them.

Actually that is on the opposite side of the side of interest (which is strange) The other side also has a teflon coating.

Turn preload to full hard. Start by loosening the top cap slightly. Then remove the fork from the bike.

Remove the lock ring holding the adjuster on. Once it is removed you can lift off the adjuster and then the o-ring underneath.


Now after having done it I can say get a bench mounted spring compressor (mine is a Racetech) the ones with two handles would be a challenge and pain that I would not do.

Take the cap loose and put it in the spring compressor

Once compressed your can put a 14mm on the damper.

This allows you to remove the damping rod lock nut (the manual is wrong on this).
At this point remove the cap.

The next step is to remove the PVC spring holder and rubber stopper ring. Lift the spring out. Tip the fork over and drain the fluid. Also remove the two washers (and in mine a shim added by T-man).

At this point you must have the damper holder.

Hold the damper from rotating with the wrench and insert a 10mm hex key into the bottom of the fork and loosen it. Now remove the axle pinch bolts as with them in the bottom bolt will not come out. Remove the bolt being aware that when you do there is some excess fluid that will come out.

Once the bolt is out of the bottom you can remove the damping rod from the top and the centering bushing that goes on the end of it.

Remove the spring clip that holds the fork seal in. Easy to do with a small screw driver, be careful not to scratch the tube.

Next you separate the lower from the tube by working it kind of like a slide hammer. It took me 5-6 times to get it to separate.

At this point it is to remove the bushings, dust covers and seal.

The fork is now disassembled. On the reinstall you can reverse the step but tape the bushing before sliding the dust seal and fork seal over it.

Overall not bad if you have a fork seal driver, spring compressor and damping rod wrench.

Various pictures



And don't scrimp on the spring compressor as a good one can make the job a quick one man job

Tip: If you have a novice sheep and your preload cap is jammed :o the solution is easy. Remove the o-rings from the cap and drop it in a pan of boiling water for a couple of minutes. The Aluminum cap will expand more than the preload plate. The plate will free up with minimal effort.... or so I have been told