Re-mapping for smoothness.

In this thread, Track bike decision, re-mapping was brought-up.
For instance, this is from the thread:

The 1000 has the exact same problem. I have made it somewhat better by added a little fuel at mid/lower revs. But, it's still not good.

What, in general, is the best way to smooth the ECU map out, to help the "snachy" response?
Thanks in advance.

You might try removing any slack in the throttle cable first, otherwise a custom map is the best way to smooth out the throttle. Sometimes it helps to be in a higher gear for a given turn, too...

And make sure you zero the map on the powercommander. My RC goes all the way to 102% Problem is that the spark maps change pretty rapidly between closed and slightly open throttle, so you might be into the agressive spark advance right from closed throttle.

If you are starting the curves at zero, or still having trouble, you can try reducing spark advance a couple degrees at low throttle openings to soften up the transition. If you don't have access to ignition maps (not sure on your bike), then making it a little more richer at low throttle (not at zero or you could foul plugs and stuff) might take some more edge off.

I don't need a custom map, it's just a stocker. Anyway, I might add even more fuel and see what happens.

Interesting that you brought up the gears. I tend to run in a higher gear, that's one reason I like liter bikes. You still have pull at lower rpm.

HOWEVER, I was thinking about my next Laguna day and I have been forcing it down into 1st for turns 8a and 11. I am going to try 2nd in those turns and see how that goes.

I know I needed 1st out of 11 to get around that darn Duc that kept holding me up.

Thanks. I don't have the spark commander, otherwise I would do that. I will richen it up some more. I have only done minor fuel adds, so I wouldn't loose too much umph.

Try it just at the lower throttle settings to soften the transition onto power. Leave the more open throttle settings alone. And as RR noted, practice being smooth and make sure there is no slack in the cables (which can exagerate any quick movement).

I also run my idle pretty high (1800 RPM). That helps keep the bike from lurching during transitions off idle.

Thanks for reminding me. I was going to try that, too.

lus1: Forgot to mention that one...

You guys were right on.
I thought I had enough slack-out of the cable, but I didn't. Adjusting that, and raising the RPM to a warm 1800-1900, did the major trick. Things are very manageable now.

Glad we could help out.

It is a lot more fun when it all works right, isn't it

A lot safer, too. I busted up my shoulder from the snatchy throttle, once.

At the speeds I'm starting to do on the track, it could get very dangerous for me and others. It doesn't mean I won't screw-up, but it just makes it less likely.